8/19/10

Almost immediately, the day was looking better. After our visit to the historically awesome aforementioned outhouse, we made our way through the trail reroute. The woods we entered were tall and thick and bore little evidence of human interaction. It was pretty cool to be on a trail that was noticeably fresh. Often times (especially on well-trod high peaks trails), you can tell that millions of human feet have gone before you. Here, it seemed like we were following blazes laid out by a swarm of fairies.



Saw many of the usual toads and efts, and while taking a break to pump water and chill on a mid-mountain brook, were visited by a hummingbird. Collected a few nice pieces of quartz along the trail, one of which I gave my dad.

Have I told you guys about the herk I brought? I have been known to carry a bit of rock with me on many outdoor missions. Famously, I was toting around a nice herk for most of a summer which I would take out at the top of a mountain or during a live music performance to "charge". My dear friend and associate Gush required a herk of his own. Well, I couldn't give it to him without it being sufficiently charged...akin to giving someone a present without the accompanying batteries.

Just before we left for our hike we stopped at the since closed Long lake Rock Shop. It's a big loss, it was  beyond awesome) and picked a huge mamma hunk of Herkimer Diamond. I decided to carry it to Piseco and mail at out after sufficient charging. Well, we hurried through that post office visit so that two and a half pound mega herk traveled with us all the way to Long lake, gaining significant charge and almost 90 miles on foot. Much love Michael.




We made it to Lake Durant in record time, the excitement growing with each step as we passed Stephen's Pond and made our way to the entrance of the camp grounds. From a distance we saw the payphone and were overjoyed. We needed to use it to call my folks so they could come drop off our food.......Tt was gone however hahaha. Just an empty box. I guess the time of pay phones is over. We went to the admission booth and the ranger let me call my folks and also gave us some cliff bars...score!!!!

We sat down on a picnic table and awaited my parents. next to us was a water spigot. What luxury! I would drink 2 sips and then refill. No pumping!!!!! My folks got there with some bangin' Screamen Eagle subs, fruit and candy. We gorged, re-upped on backpacker meals and had some much-needed human interaction.



We are now more than halfway through our journey and the days ahead are looking bright. Though it hurts every day, I think we are through the worst of it. We got back on the trail after a warm send off from my folks and headed towards Tirrell Pond. We were concerned about finding a vacant lean-to after reading in the guide that this was a popular spot for sea-plane fly in camping. Our worst fears seemed to be confirmed as a large family was milling about at the intersection to the camp site. Miracle of miracle's they were just passing through.



Another superlative lean-to with a nice sandy beach. Soaked up the solitude and enjoyed our lunch leftovers. Felt rich and happy as we got towards bed time. Full bellies and good times. lots of entertaining graffiti and chipmunks at the lean-to.



Day 6: 15 miles. total: 67 miles

8/18/10

Lovely wake up at another scenic lake-side lean-to. Cedar River was quite nice. The end of the hike got a bit monotonous, ending with over a mile of road walking. Jeanette reached the end of her rope a bit on  this day as I had the day before. I ended up volunteering to carry the tent for that last stretch of road if to only give her the illusion of it being slightly easier. We saw a co-worker from the museum drive by us on the stretch looking for a place to put in his kayak. Kind of random.

I can't say that I was a big fan of Wakely Dam. It was dirty and run down with garbage everywhere. There were a number of Winnebagos and pick-ups running generators throughout the day. I know people enjoy the Adirondacks and camping in a variety of ways but this was not for me. I guess I would feel differently if we had done as the guide book suggested and had friends meet us here with meat on the grill on beer in the cooler.

We set up our tent for the first time on the hike as far away from "civilization" as we could. We did very little aside from making dinner and reading quite a bit. We decided to wake up early to get to Durant (and our food pick-up) at a decent hour.

As a recommendation to future hikers, bypass the campsites around the water and keep heading up the road for less than a mile. On your left, completely isolated from the rest of the car-camp enthusiasts is a handcap equiped campsite with a STUNNING outhouse that must have been recently built. After a visit there, Jeanette and I got the spring back in our step.

As a 2018 postscript, I just wanted to sat I have a completely different perspective on Wakely Dam thanks to dear friends Sathi and Emily. They put in kayaks there all summer, paddle to a campsite and take in the splendor of Cedar River Flow one weekend at a time. Both J and I have separately gone out and had some incredible times.  

Day 5: 10 and change. Total: 52 miles

8/17/10

Amazing sunrise, so good to be dry and happy. Spruce Lake will always be remembered as an incredibly beautiful and therapeutic location. The lean to was really cool. It was weathered and warped with the lots of graffiti about epic trout with dates going back to the 60's. The view that it framed would be at home on an Adirondack post card or advertisement.

Early on it was apparent that I was hurting and tired. The miles seemed to go a bit slower. Sat down for a while on my pack and had the 'why am I doing this?' feeling for the first time on the hike.

There were a good amount of red efts on the trail. West Canada Lake's Wilderness is not overrated by the guide book. It's beautiful and still and the weather gave us it's best (thankfully on such a mentally difficult day). Lots of green and blue to keep one foot going in front of the other.

Saw a number of backpacking pairs on this section, no singles, groups or day hikers. Met a dog or two which is always a good time. At the end of my energy and joy reserves we reached the Beaver Pond lean-to. Saved again!!!!!

From my journal: "Lean-to at Beaver Pond intersection is perfect. Too tired to write more now, maybe later?"

This place is incredible. The view was nearly as good as from Spruce Lake but the lean-to is the real hero here. Big and new and perfectly kept up. Maintained with a great deal of love and respect. It could probably sleep an entire troop of boy scouts. The fire pit was substantial and a number of large quartz boulders were used. This place looked like a great weekend excursion with lots of little trails around the lake and pond.

After laying down for a bit and eating not one but two backpacker meals for dinner I had a new lease on life. I took an evening walk around the lake shore and took some pictures of this beautiful setting. Tried to get some shots of the loon that was living in the bay but it was a bit far off and came out blurry.

I highly recommend the Mountain House Beef Stroganoff. We had it for the first time that night and it rocked my world. After eating Backpacker's Pantry meals for 3 nights straight, the rich creamyness of the gravy and the big chunks of beef almost made me weep with joy. I do still recommend the Backpacker's Pantry meals (especially Katmandu Curry) as they are chock full of nutrition and fiber, but you can get pretty sick of endless variations of brown rice and beans after a while and just want some (freeze dried) home cookin'.

At the time, the section from Spruce Lake to Beaver Pond is in pretty bad shape with large section inundated with mud and water from beaver activity. Despite the muddy boots, the trail was still fairly easy to follow.

Day 4: 10 and change. Total: 42

8/16/10

We woke up to a still dripping woods from yesterday's rain. Had some oatmeal and hit the trail. Bud was starting out just behind us (having camped about .2 miles back at the second suspension bridge). It went from dripping to thunder as we made our way towards Piseco, our food drop and the outside world.

Red efts dominated the trail this morning, it being too wet for even the toads or the frogs... well, there was still a few. It rained hard until we hit town with thundering roaring every few minutes. We seemed to be staying pretty dry and in good spirits likely motivated by the thought of town in the near future. As we left the woods and hit the pavement, patches of blue sky began to push through the gray mass.

It was such a novelty to be in a store. Though we had only been in the woods for 2 nights at this point we both felt alien wandering the aisles. We shared some mac n cheese and some chili (at 8am hahaha). We also bought sandwiches and some pastry for our lunch. We felt unbelievably rich!! Headed down the road and towards the post office just as it was opening up. A package for us! We mailed ourselves food here and at Long Lake, also doing a pick-up in Blue Mountain Lake with a little help from the parents. Could we possibly get any richer? We had bought some ocean spray little cylinders of juice powder in single servings and these turned out to be one of the best treats on the trail.

Once back in the woods, the trail was flat and devoid of rocks for the first couple of miles. With full bellies, full packs, bright sun and easy going Jeanette and I were grinning from ear to ear. A blessing, and we made killer time. Got hilly and stayed that way on our approach to the Jessup River. Quite beautiful with a highlight being the actual river crossing. Lots of great places to camp or chill but we had or sights set on Spruce Lake lean-to #2 for the night and were not gonna stop till we had our satisfaction! I would definitely return to this area for day hiking or overnights in the future.

The last portion of our hike, the approach to Spruce Lake was beautiful and challenging. We were both past the point of exhaustion and got into one of those silly ranting kind of moods that happens with long distance hiking. Spruce forest and a hill down marked our approach to the lake. The first lean-to was not directly on the lake and had some serious mud out front. Passing it up was one of the harder things I did on this hike. I was so tired and wanted to just keel over but knew it was the right thing to do to just get to the next one.

Our excitement grew and the distance to the next lean-to (about 0.5 miles) seemed to grow as well. The welcoming yellow on brown lean-to sign sparked a wave of elation as we pawed through the semi-overgrown trail down to the lake edge and our home for the night.

Impossibly beautiful!!!!! It was sunny with a decent wind coming of the lake. Usually not something to make you smile but I was super glad for the wind. At least half of my clothes were wet from the previous rain, I made a fairly foolish decision to wash clothes and hope they would dry on a rainy day.

Within 2 hours our clothes were well on the way to drying, a swim/ bath in a pristine lake was had, wood was gathered for our first fire of the trip and I had figured out why my water filter was pumping so slow. I hadn't cleaned it once on the trip and we had been pumping water in some low, sketchy areas (the first leg of NPT being in the southern, low Adirondacks). With the sediment cleaned off the charcoal filter,  the first bottle pumped blessedly quick. I don't think I have ever been more happy or content in my life as we settled in for the night. From my journal: 'Inventoried gear, cleaned my filter, ready to rage the trail another day!'

This is the day when we began to establish our routine for the trip. Wake between 5 and 6 AM, hike till 2 or 3 PM and chill hard till we pass out (usually about 8 pm hahaha).

Day 3: 14 miles. Total: 32 miles.

P.S. That night, with a crackling fire, and a pink sunset framed by the uneven and ancient trout assassin lean-to, the loons began to sing.

Loon calls on Spruce Lake

They sang a song sorrowful, beautiful and intense.

The fish jumped, the bats swooped in and the half-moon shone.

8/15/10

We woke up at Mud Lake to overcast skies with some sun. Went back to sleep after wandering around for a little bit at 6. Woke up for real again at 9:30. Got moving slowly, soaked up the true joy of coffee. I use a filter that screws on top of a Nalgene bottle. You put the coffee into this fine metal screen, pour in the hot water and then shake for 5 minutes. It's thick, it's strong it does the job. Sold in the cooking section of EMS.

The trail from Mud Lake to the Sacandaga River was seriously perfect for moving. Downhill with few rocks and a wide trail. At the river I pumped water a bit nervously not knowing what amount of human or agricultural activity was going on upstream. At the suspension bridge, there was a fantasy movie being being shot with cheap camcorders by some middle-aged men wearing leather gauntlets. When I came upon I saw a few children with capes and swords. I kind of assumed it was some local nerds out LARPing before I saw the camera. There was an orc (one of the few adult actors), with horns and decent make-up. There were also many children 8-16 in renaissance fair type gear. The younger they were, the less elaborately dressed. It was honestly a pretty weird scene. 

The hike from the river to our eventual second lean-to was not super eventful, some pretty woods with some nice big old growth, a lovely second suspension bridge with a good tent spot just past it.

We arrived at the Hamilton Stream Lean-to and decided to have a snack (Tuna on cracker) and pump some water. As I wandered back to the stream to pump, a light drizzle began to fall. After pumping for over an hour, the rain had not stopped. Bud, who was right behind us for most of the day decided to tent at the suspension bridge site. He had a military style water filter which pumped 2 liters in about 5 minutes. It was taking me almost 30 minutes to fill one Nalgene.

We decided, still exhausted from the start of our adventures to stay the night at the lean-to we were already chilling at. We read, played cards and for the first time in our camping careers, simply relaxed at a campsite for the day (finished hiking around 2 or so). It turned out to be a really nice time, watching the rain fall from our cozy shelter.

day 2: 4.8 miles. 2 day total: 18 miles.

A hummingbird, Jeanette's totem for the hike, visited me while I was pumping water. I t was shiny green, a bit iridescence and tasted an orange flower.

Many toads! a land of toads

found a piece of stoneware, left it at Hamilton Stream Lean-to.

8/14/10

Jeanette and I worked the week before we started the Northville-Placid Trail in Plattsburgh (Chazy actually). We drove down to my folks camp in Eagle Bay that Friday. We had Walter, our black cat with us, he would be staying with my parents while we were in the woods. The plan was to drive to the end of the trail, the Averyville rd trail head in Lake Placid where we would meet up with New York State Licensed Guide Tom Haskins who was running an NPT shuttle service at the time. He would drive us to the start of our journey In Upper Benson, NY.

We woke up at 5 AM to leave by 7. Mom made lots of strong coffee and a breakfast feast. We saw two deer and a coyote cross the road near Tupper and a bear on the side of 28 the night before. Tom was there waiting at the trail head right at 9am, reclining on the bed-edge of an old but well-maintained gray pick-up. The drive down was lovely.



W meet Derrick at the trail head wearing his grandfather's safari hat. He wanted to see us off on our first stretch. We set up our bags and ate some Screamen Eagle Pizza for good luck and nice times. The first stretch of trail had some really nice campsites (an easy day hike in for a nice weekend in the woods), especially the one right before the bridge over West Stormy or Goldmine Creek.



Silver Lake was quite lovely. After hiking about 7 miles we rested there and had another fine Derrick gourmet cheese nosh. Jeanette slipped into a nap on her pad (an endearing little habit she's formed) while Derrick and I discussed safety for the rest of our trip while watching some dragonflies and frogs. We met Bud there. He started the trail a few hours before us and had found his lean-to for the night. He was hiking solo and looked to be doing some fishing and solitude pursuit as well as hiking. Derrick followed us as far as to the next water source where he filled his bottle. We parted ways.



Just before approaching Canary Pond, a beaver meadow/ wetland (visible on the map) presented us with our first challenge of will on our journey. From my journal: 'the beaver meadow was an up-to-the-knee mudfest, quite debilitating to the soul'. After Jeanette's trying struggle in the bog of despair we made it to the shore of Canary pond where we planned on washing up and making sure none of the 'worms' we encountered in the marsh got too comfortable on our feet.



We stumbled through a tent site with 3 tarp and hammock set-ups. As we approached the shore, 3 dudes and 5(?) dogs were wrenched out of an afternoon sun-baked nap next to the lapping waters. Three of the dogs were size-able and irate Bull Mastiffs. The Owner eventually settled them down and we shared a conversation with these guys. They had been doing this hike each summer for several years and were doing it North to south, the opposite of the standard approach. Got some great advice and encouragement which got us back on our feet for the last stretch.

It was a blur to the next lean to (Mud Lake, our first) as we were very tired. Beautiful place, lean-to in great condition. Slept many hours.

Day 1: 13.2 miles

we saw frogs, toads, dragonflies, a hawk (which followed us), and assorted small birds including a grouse.

Greatest Hits

      I wanted to share some favorite pics and memories of hiking from the past few years as my excitement builds for our upcoming thru-hike of the Northville Placid trail. Around this time last year Jeanette and I were falling deeply in love......with hiking and backpacking. We shook hands and decided we would hike the trail  the next summer. I'm not sure if either of us really believed we would follow through with what, at the time, was still a bit out of our league. Jeanette bought the trail guide,we went on with our hiking, camping and falling in love.




     So here we are, mere days away from our wander through the adirondack wilderness. If it weren't for some of the incredible times we've had exploring that I'd like to share with you, this dream would not have ripened so sweetly. Be safe out there and keep love and appreciation for all of these wonders as your center. Kieran Murphy rule in full effect.


The Tetons from Grand Targhee. Can't wait to go west again
One of Jeanette's amazing shots from the summit of Gothics. Possibly one of my favorite hikes...ever.

Rattlesnakes on Alander Mountain. This Mountain also includes a summit cabin and fields of blubes (blueberries DUH).
Giant Mountain has a nubble and a washbowl...and a bad-ass waterfall

A beautiful night spent camping on the AT. A chance meeting with some thru-hikers= much needed inspiration just when we needed it the most.
Bear Mountain Bridge as seen from Anthony's Nose. Some amazing hikes around Peekskill


My First look at Algonquin and the Mac range. Some say this idol still wanders Phelps Brook Valley...